PhD Study : Online stitching communities (OSC): Developing a comprehensive theory of benefit, design and service delivery.

Summary

Engagement in sewing declined in the 20th century and became  seen as dowdy (Wall Street Journal, 23.1.1986).  The British Sewing Bee and Project Runway have contributed to a resurgence, with growing numbers sewing their clothing instead of buying fast fashion. Since the 1970s the reasons for home sewing have shifted from economic to creative, leisure, and psychological motivations. (Martindale and McKinney 2020) In the UK about 3.5 million people (5% of population) sew clothes (Lewis-Hammond 2014). OSCs are credited with facilitating growth of sewing. OSCs are participatory electronic textiles (e-textiles) sewing groups that use websites or apps. Open or membership OSCs share sewing outcomes, commentary and may have other characteristics. OSCs have not been subject to significant academic research.

During 2020, rapidly developed OSCs including ’For The Love of Scrubs’ ‘ScrubHub’ and ‘NI Scrubs,’ came to public attention. But  OSCs already existed. The Scrubs OSCs reverse emerging theory. Learning sewing techniques has shifted from belief mode to design mode (Lahti 2012). The standardised outputs of scrubs OSCs required  reversion to belief mode where knowledge transfer is based on instructions for a defined output without creativity (Slocum & Beard, 2005). The problem-solving goals and resources are defined – i.e.  make a scrub to a certain design.

Design mode is a less -structured process, and goals and resources are refined during the problem-solving with creativity deployed.  Covid scrubs OSCs are also atypical of the trajectory in their reintroduction of a survivalist imperative that had been absent from sewing since preindustrial times. (Kotler 1986) Post covid, independent of those standardised outputs of batch production, how have these groups adapted to individualism? How have moderator or management functions emerged? OSCs are like other online communities but appear to have specific characteristics and user profile. Some OSCs have specific shared tasks for community benefit. E.g., neonatal knitting products. Some have face-to-face parallels. Some OSCs are limited to a specific technique such as punch needle; other OSCs are linked to a brand e.g.  sewoverit.com downloadable dress patterns. Following review of literature, OSCs will be identified and analysed. Initial scoping may include content analysis.

The researcher will propose a methodology to investigate the ecology of OSCs and may include: What are  the communities of practice? What are the models of collaboration, management and leadership? Are there offline catalysts?  What is OSC longevity, growth, dispersion or failure? What are the expert learner dynamics?

Research may include social, environmental and economic. It is asserted that collaborative sewing has wellbeing impacts in post-traumatic settings. Perceptions of wellbeing may be researched. Some groups have a focus, e.g., women who have engaged with the criminal system (‘Changing Lives’). What additional meanings is carried in such OSCs? Stitching, embroidery and dressmaking online groups are credited with reaching new user groups. Forbes (7.9. 2020) asserted OSCs reduce work stress and identified millennials as the drivers. What is the intersectionality with technology and user motivations for use of mass media? Are OSCs typical of online communities? Who is the user? Why join? What is their  engagement? What is the relationship of craft consumption and successful project completion to continued participation (Watson and Shove 2008)? How loyal are they? What are the characteristics of passive / active agents?

With reference to existing theory of online communities, consider isolation and addiction. How does diversity, equality, internationality,  regionality, locality,  operate? How are OSCs monetised or sustainable? Is there commodification of community effort? How is consumer theory enacted? How are ethical or copyright issues navigated (e.g., cultural appropriation Pap Kochi Kimono 2018).

The research focus may narrow and use interviews, surveys or other research methods (with relevant ethical approval)  to understand the phenomenon. The suitable researcher may choose to collaboratively facilitate an e-textiles project in order to empirically explore topics of community, skill development, isolation, healing etc.

Essential criteria

Applicants should hold, or expect to obtain, a First or Upper Second Class Honours Degree in a subject relevant to the proposed area of study.

We may also consider applications from those who hold equivalent qualifications, for example, a Lower Second Class Honours Degree plus a Master’s Degree with Distinction.

In exceptional circumstances, the University may consider a portfolio of evidence from applicants who have appropriate professional experience which is equivalent to the learning outcomes of an Honours degree in lieu of academic qualifications.

• Sound understanding of subject area as evidenced by a comprehensive research proposal
• A comprehensive and articulate personal statement
• Research proposal of 2000 words detailing aims, objectives, milestones and methodology of the project

Desirable Criteria

If the University receives a large number of applicants for the project, the following desirable criteria may be applied to shortlist applicants for interview.

• For VCRS Awards, Masters at 75%
• Practice-based research experience and/or dissemination
• Experience using research methods or other approaches relevant to the subject domain
• Work experience relevant to the proposed project

Equal Opportunities

The University is an equal opportunities employer and welcomes applicants from all sections of the community, particularly from those with disabilities.

Appointment will be made on merit.

Funding and eligibility

The University offers the following levels of support:

Vice Chancellors Research Studentship (VCRS)

The following scholarship options are available to applicants worldwide:

• Full Award: (full-time tuition fees + £19,000 (tbc))
• Part Award: (full-time tuition fees + £9,500)
• Fees Only Award: (full-time tuition fees)

These scholarships will cover full-time PhD tuition fees for three years (subject to satisfactory academic performance) and will provide a £900 per annum research training support grant (RTSG) to help support the PhD researcher.

Applicants who already hold a doctoral degree or who have been registered on a programme of research leading to the award of a doctoral degree on a full-time basis for more than one year (or part-time equivalent) are NOT eligible to apply for an award.

Please note: you will automatically be entered into the competition for the Full Award, unless you state otherwise in your application.

Department for the Economy (DFE)

The scholarship will cover tuition fees at the Home rate and a maintenance allowance of £19,237 (tbc) per annum for three years (subject to satisfactory academic performance).

This scholarship also comes with £900 per annum for three years as a research training support grant (RTSG) allocation to help support the PhD researcher.

• Candidates with pre-settled or settled status under the EU Settlement Scheme, who also satisfy a three year residency requirement in the UK prior to the start of the course for which a Studentship is held MAY receive a Studentship covering fees and maintenance.
• Republic of Ireland (ROI) nationals who satisfy three years’ residency in the UK prior to the start of the course MAY receive a Studentship covering fees and maintenance (ROI nationals don’t need to have pre-settled or settled status under the EU Settlement Scheme to qualify).
• Other non-ROI EU applicants are ‘International’ are not eligible for this source of funding.
• Applicants who already hold a doctoral degree or who have been registered on a programme of research leading to the award of a doctoral degree on a full-time basis for more than one year (or part-time equivalent) are NOT eligible to apply for an award.

Due consideration should be given to financing your studies. Further information on cost of living