Spinning Donegal: From Handcraft to Industry, Gendered Labour, and the Future of the Woollen System

Summary

This PhD examines the historical and contemporary development of Donegal Yarns, one of the last remaining commercial woollen spinners in Ireland.

Despite its international profile and heritage significance, there has been no previous doctoral research focused on this company.

The study traces its evolution from domestic hand-spinning traditions to mechanised industrial production, situating Donegal within broader narratives of textile modernisation. It explores how industrial spinning replaced community-based hand-spinning historically women’s work reshaping gendered labour roles, social practices, and rural cultural economies.

Donegal Yarns is distinctive for maintaining the woollen spinning system, producing the flecked and heathered yarns that define Donegal’s global textile identity.

Unlike worsted spinning, which relies on long-staple fibres and uniform outputs, the woollen system uses shorter staples to create bulkier, warmer yarns whose irregularities embody both technical and cultural value.

These material characteristics connect industrial production to local histories of hand-spinning, embedding heritage within process and sustaining Donegal’s unique position in international markets.

The research addresses contemporary challenges facing the wool industry synthetic competition, depressed farm-gate prices, and fragmented supply chains.

In Ireland, where most wool is exported at minimal value, these issues highlight the urgency of re-localising processing and developing regionalised supply chains.

Through interviews, archival study, and ethnographic fieldwork, the project investigates the potential for Irish wool to be re-integrated into domestic production at Donegal, identifying infrastructural and quality barriers to sectoral renewal.

A further strand examines the archiving and safeguarding of Donegal’s cultural and material heritage.

By analysing company archives, oral histories, and design outputs, the research documents gendered histories of production and evolving narratives of authenticity and place. It will also evaluate tools such as Geographical Indications, provenance branding, and fibre traceability to strengthen Donegal’s identity and sustainability.

Essential criteria

Applicants should hold, or expect to obtain, a First or Upper Second Class Honours Degree in a subject relevant to the proposed area of study.

We may also consider applications from those who hold equivalent qualifications, for example, a Lower Second Class Honours Degree plus a Master’s Degree with Distinction.

In exceptional circumstances, the University may consider a portfolio of evidence from applicants who have appropriate professional experience which is equivalent to the learning outcomes of an Honours degree in lieu of academic qualifications.

• A comprehensive and articulate personal statement
• Research proposal of 2000 words detailing aims, objectives, milestones and methodology of the project

Desirable Criteria

If the University receives a large number of applicants for the project, the following desirable criteria may be applied to shortlist applicants for interview.

• Completion of Masters at a level equivalent to commendation or distinction at Ulster
• Practice-based research experience and/or dissemination
• Experience using research methods or other approaches relevant to the subject domain
• Work experience relevant to the proposed project

Equal Opportunities

The University is an equal opportunities employer and welcomes applicants from all sections of the community, particularly from those with disabilities.

Appointment will be made on merit.

Funding and eligibility

This project is funded by:

• Department for the Economy (DfE)

This scholarship will cover tuition fees and provide a maintenance allowance of £21,000* (tbc) per annum for three years (subject to satisfactory academic performance).  A Research Training Support Grant (RTSG) of approximately £900 per annum is also available.

To be eligible for these scholarships, applicants must meet the following criteria:

• Be a UK National, or

• Have settled status, or

• Have pre-settled status, or

• Have indefinite leave to remain or enter, or

• be an Irish National

Applicants should also meet the residency criteria which requires that they have lived in the EEA, Switzerland, the UK or Gibraltar for at least the three years preceding the start date of the research degree programme.

Applicants who already hold a doctoral degree or who have been registered on a programme of research leading to the award of a doctoral degree on a full-time basis for more than one year (or part-time equivalent) are NOT eligible to apply for an award.

Due consideration should be given to financing your studies.

*Part time PhD scholarships may be available, based on 0.5 of the full time rate, and will require a six year registration period