PhD Study : The Ready Made Shirt Making Industry in Ulster

Summary

Ulster’s ready-made shirt making industry, located largely in the north west of Northern Ireland, was an important but little known industry. Its origins lie in the early 19th century, when local man William Scott established a shirt making enterprise in Derry in 1831. Having spotted a demand, among fashionable society, for cotton shirts with embroidered linen fronts, he expanded his making, via outstations, into manufacture and by 1850 was thought to have one of the highest wage bills in the city. His early success paved the way for others, who took an industrial approach to shirt making.

Technological advances, such as the introduction of the sewing machine, allowed further investment in the city and industrialists to construct purpose built factories. The Tillie & Henderson factory at 19,000 sq ft, opened in 1856, was the largest of its kind in the world. By the 1902, there were 38 shirt factories in Derry, employing 18,000 workers and 80,000 outworkers, producing 700,000 shirts per week. The significance of the industry has been acknowledged mostly in terms of its social and economic historical impact (Grew, Durnin).

The industry has also been examined through the lens of politics and sectarianism (Finlay, 1987) and gender (Finlay, 1993). However, little is publicly known about shirt design in the industry. There exists a modest amount of historical work on the ready made shirt making industry and even less focus has been given over to the design history of the industry.

This project would provide an overview of the historical production of shirts in Northern Ireland and an overview of shirt design history mapping out the major changes in styles and manufacturing methods. The project would be largely archival based (to include Textiles Collection at Derry City Council, Archives & Genealogy Service and The Londonderry Shirt Industry Papers, 1862-1977 at PRONI). New perspectives on shirt making may be an outcome and how this history still has an impact today.

Applications with a practice-based element may also be considered.

Essential criteria

Applicants should hold, or expect to obtain, a First or Upper Second Class Honours Degree in a subject relevant to the proposed area of study.

We may also consider applications from those who hold equivalent qualifications, for example, a Lower Second Class Honours Degree plus a Master’s Degree with Distinction.

In exceptional circumstances, the University may consider a portfolio of evidence from applicants who have appropriate professional experience which is equivalent to the learning outcomes of an Honours degree in lieu of academic qualifications.

• Sound understanding of subject area as evidenced by a comprehensive research proposal
• A comprehensive and articulate personal statement
• Research proposal of 2000 words detailing aims, objectives, milestones and methodology of the project

Desirable Criteria

If the University receives a large number of applicants for the project, the following desirable criteria may be applied to shortlist applicants for interview.

• Completion of Masters at a level equivalent to commendation or distinction at Ulster
• Practice-based research experience and/or dissemination
• Experience using research methods or other approaches relevant to the subject domain
• Work experience relevant to the proposed project

Funding and eligibility

The University offers the following levels of support:

Vice Chancellors Research Studentship (VCRS)

The following scholarship options are available to applicants worldwide:

• Full Award: (full-time tuition fees + £19,000 (tbc))
• Part Award: (full-time tuition fees + £9,500)
• Fees Only Award: (full-time tuition fees)

These scholarships will cover full-time PhD tuition fees for three years (subject to satisfactory academic performance) and will provide a £900 per annum research training support grant (RTSG) to help support the PhD researcher.

Applicants who already hold a doctoral degree or who have been registered on a programme of research leading to the award of a doctoral degree on a full-time basis for more than one year (or part-time equivalent) are NOT eligible to apply for an award.

Please note: you will automatically be entered into the competition for the Full Award, unless you state otherwise in your application.

Department for the Economy (DFE)

The scholarship will cover tuition fees at the Home rate and a maintenance allowance of £19,000 (tbc) per annum for three years (subject to satisfactory academic performance).

This scholarship also comes with £900 per annum for three years as a research training support grant (RTSG) allocation to help support the PhD researcher.

• Candidates with pre-settled or settled status under the EU Settlement Scheme, who also satisfy a three year residency requirement in the UK prior to the start of the course for which a Studentship is held MAY receive a Studentship covering fees and maintenance.
• Republic of Ireland (ROI) nationals who satisfy three years’ residency in the UK prior to the start of the course MAY receive a Studentship covering fees and maintenance (ROI nationals don’t need to have pre-settled or settled status under the EU Settlement Scheme to qualify).
• Other non-ROI EU applicants are ‘International’ are not eligible for this source of funding.
• Applicants who already hold a doctoral degree or who have been registered on a programme of research leading to the award of a doctoral degree on a full-time basis for more than one year (or part-time equivalent) are NOT eligible to apply for an award.

Due consideration should be given to financing your studies. Further information on cost of living